I hadn't been to Florence since I was much younger and was presented with the opportunity to go for work. Those of you who know me also know that I'll never say no to Italy. I only spent three nights here, but even having work obligations, I managed to fit a lot in. It's a small city, making it totally manageable to get around on foot. I love this about Florence and never got in a car while I was there until my ride to the airport. Florence really is a thing of beauty and has some of the most stunning, regal architecture. Foodwise, I didn't have a bad bite, but I also did a fair amount of research and talked to several locals prior for their recommendations. As in love with Italian food as I am, I am not one to believe that you can't have a bad meal in Italy - you can. If you're a meat eater, you can't visit Florence without also ordering a bistecca alla Florentina, or a Florentine steak, along with trippa (tripe) or lamprodetto, which I talk more about below. This is not a city to eat lightly in, but then again, why would you?
Activities
It's touristy. There's no denying it. But for me, there is still something charming about this stretch along the Arno River. Now mostly jewelers, the shops used to be filled with butchers, but they threw a few too many meat scraps into the Arno to maintain their tenure. It's absolutely worth seeing, and you will likely run into it if you're headed to the other side of the Arno (now referred to as the "Oltrarno") or if you're going to the Uffizi.
Speaking of the Oltrano, these beautiful gardens are on the other side of the Arno and definitely worth a visit. I was there in February, so it was not as vibrant as it would've been in warmer months. But the layout of the gardens and the views of the city are not to be missed.
I loved this museum. I actually walked over to the Uffizi originally thinking I would do that and then saw the line. Fortunately, this was a short walk away and had maybe a handful of other visitors. Pure bliss. It does a wonderful job of highlighting the progression of Ferragamo's designs and many of his awe-inspiring original shoe designs. It also incorporated some other major Italian designers. .
Eateries
When in Florence, you will not be short on options of where to eat "lamprodetto," a classic Florentine street or peasant food of the fourth and final stomach of a cow. Aside from cilantro, there is basically nothing I won't eat, but I will admit I'm a bit less adventurous when it comes to offal options. However, I figured...when in Florence. This is where I decided to dive in in the form of meat balls, and there are no regrets here. The meatballs were crispy on the outside and had a rich, herbaceous flavor. I then had a handmade pasta with kale pesto that was divine. If you're planning to eat here, I would recommend making a reservation given that it was over an hour wait when I went by myself.
This was recommended by a local, and I was surrounded by mostly locals when I ate there. It's an older, trattoria-style restaurant across the Arno with delicious food. The highlight of my meal here was the beef carpaccio with Jerusalem artichokes. I then had penne with a kind of spicy vodka sauce. I just asked the waiter to pick his favorite pasta, and this is what he came back with. Their bistecca alla Florentina looked wondrous, but I was alone and didn't think I could handle the commitment, so I opted for the carpaccio and pasta.
Simplicity at its finest. If you're heading to the Mercado Sant'Ambrogio, this is the perfect stop for a panino and glass of wine for lunch. It's only open for a few hours from 11:30-3 Monday through Saturday, so don't miss your window. Don't miss it entirely either as I almost did. It's a tiny green door and small space with a couple of stools, so don't expect to sit down for a leisurely lunch. The owner, Marco Papparozzi, has a daily rotating menu of a handful of panini. Despite its reputation in the U.S., a panino is not a hot, pressed sandwich. Here you will find fresh bread standard to panini in Florence and unique offerings like donkey or herring with pecorino. You will likely see offal options on the small menu (you are in Florence, after all). I grabbed my panino and a glass on wine and sat on the bench out front and took in all of the action around the market.
I was on my way to what I later realized was their bakery and decided to stop in for an impromptu lunch here. The restaurant is simple in appearance with white walls and a mahoghany bar and shelving. I sat at the bar and had a glass of red and an incredible handmade pasta in a tomato sauce with nduja and fresh pecorino. The waiter warned me it was quite spicy, and he wasn't kidding. The space was rustic and low-key with a buzz about it, and the food had an unexpected refinement to it.
This wine bar is hidden behind the stands of "leather" goods and blinding rhinestones in San Lorenzo, which made it the perfect place of respite from the merchants trying to sell me shoes and bags that are clearly not made in Florence (or Italy for that matter). Wines are displayed on old mahogany shelves and thoughtfully curated. There is a selection of cheeses and cured meats and fish along with some beautiful antipasti prepared in house. I asked for a local red with the minimal Italian I speak and ordered a few snacks knowing that I would be eating again relatively soon. I had an incredible mix of marinated mushrooms with Tuscan olive oil and herbs and some local cheese.
There's a very distinctive smell to an Italian bakery. It's one of comfort and familiarity for me as I grew up going to work with my grandfather at an Italian bakery in New Jersey. It was no different here, and the smells of freshly baked bread when you walk in are intoxicating. The space has been a bakery in the Santo Spirito area of the city for over 100 years. Its most recent owner has been running it for 40 or so years but more recently partnered up with the team from Il Santo Bevitore, though the sign on the facade merely says "panificio." There are incredible baguettes, focaccia, pastries and more. There is a small area towards the front with beautiful specialty products from Italy and a small fridge for a careful selection of dairy, You can grab a panino or taste a few things and linger at one of the tables. Whatever route you do, don't miss this spot as it's one of the only remaining bakeries in Florence with the ovens still on site.
For next time, there are some other spots I heard great things about, but a girl can only eat so much in three days.
Nerbone (Mercato Centrale)
Gelato
This was my favorite gelato spot that I tried,. It's located right next to the Duomo, which surprised me since you don't usually find quality gelato in the face of one of the city's most visited sites. All flavors are organic, and quite a few are dairy-free. I had coffee and almond, which, despite being dairy-free, was out of this world. It will be hard not to order one of their freshly baked cones as the smell will convince you as soon as you walk into the door.
Churning since 1989, this was another dreamy gelato experience. I had coconut and chocolate, and both were light and creamy. Carabé produces everything fresh daily with carefully sourced ingredients and little added sugar in an effort to really highlight the purest state of each flavor.
Cocktails
I stopped here one afternoon to recharge my phone and have a latté. It's incredible to see what's going on in the coffee world not just in New York City and the surrounding areas, but worldwide. As someone who typically leaves my hotel room in the morning and doesn't come back until after dinner, it was the perfect place to charge my phone and read for a bit. I actually ended up coming back because Il Magazzino had over an hour wait and was a short walk away. Am I glad that I did! I had a cocktail with saffron-infused vodka, ginger ale and chili that was absolutely delicious, and in true Italian fashion, it was served with potato chips and meaty, green olives.
Harry's Bar
I was last here when I was eight years old with my parents, so this was more of a "trip down memory lane" kind of visit. It's still as chic as I remember with lovely views of the Arno and the other side of Florence. In true "Cipriani" fashion, I ordered the bellini. The waiter was nice enough to bring out some snacks as well. The restaurant has an older feel to it but is recharged by the addition of lively art on the walls. I think I would stick to just having a drink here as opposed to a full meal.