The Douro Valley is to Porto what Napa Valley is to San Francisco. About an hour’s drive outside of the city, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported. The wines are bold and dynamic, and the terrain is like nothing I’ve ever seen before and clearly creates a completely unique landscape for grape-growing. If you are going to be driving, be forewarned that the roads are narrow and windy. I would recommend a driver if you plan on packing in a lot of wineries in one day as these roads require hyper-focus under the most sober of circumstances. Our drive to one of the wineries, Quinta do Monte Bravo, was harrowing to say the least. The other option would be to take an organized tour from Porto so you don’t have to worry about driving or even planning for that matter. Also of note, the Douro Valley is rather large, so try to plan your happenings with a focus on one area. We stayed in Pinhao, which was a charming village with another gorgeous train station. Though I wouldn’t necessarily stay at the same hotel again (I did not list it as an option below), I did enjoy the central location and town itself.
Eateries
Food so nice, we ate it twice. When I travel, I’m always looking at restaurants, preferably the ones locals are eating at. But there’s no better resource than locals themselves, and this is the perfect example of that. I had looked at the food photos a few times on TripAdvisor (I never read the reviews) and wasn’t getting “that feeling.” However, after asking multiple people who lived in the Douro where they would recommend for dinner, we kept getting this place as an answer. And am I glad we did! Don’t even bother looking at the pictures. Just go. It’s husband and wife-owned, you’ll likely see their kids while visiting, and they could not have been more gracious. They can also point in the right direction food-wise. We met a wine maker during our first dinner and, after a limited exchange in French, planned a visit to his winery the next day where his son would welcome us (more in next section).
We were out and about visit wineries and somehow stumbled upon this restaurant. The tables are large as it was clear that many local families dine here. The restaurant itself is no frills, and the food was absolutely delicious. Make this a pit stop in between tastings so you have a good base for all of the wine you’ll be drinking.
We tried to go to dinner here one night and didn’t succeed. We didn’t have a reservation and encountered the rude owner who had no interest in seating us and was somewhat bothered by our presence. That being said, I still wanted to eat here and will triumph upon my next trip to the Douro Valley! It’s a tiny, rustic space with what looks like incredibly authentic, delicious northern Portuguese food. Have your hotel call ahead and figure this out for you, but do go so I can live vicariously.
This was an incredible find. It’s a small fumeiro (“smoker”) and butcher shop in the village of Pinhao. Fernando, the butcher, will let you taste anything you want. The smoky flavors of the meats are vibrant and divine, and the selection is extensive for such a tiny operation. We loaded up on a selection of meats and cheeses and bought some of their house-made jams and off we went to a tasting, where we sat outside and had a picnic. Don’t forget the fresh bread.
Wineries
We did the vintage experience here. Alvaro was unbelievably charismatic while shedding light on the history of the valley, the unique terrain, the Douro grape varietals and how it all comes together to affect the wines. This is a more extensive tour and tasting but worthwhile. He’ll bring you up into the hills, where the views are breathtaking, and then you’ll eventually end with a tasting.
This was the winery we learned of at dinner at Toca da Raposa. It was quite the ride to get there, but we loved our experience with Francisco, the winemaker and son of the owner we met at dinner. It was just the two of us, so the experience was intimate and we tasted a few of the wines right out of the barrel. I love finding gems like this through conversation with the locals.
Activities
This was the perfect way to take in the banks of the Douro Valley. The cruise itself will happen on one of their vintage boats from the 1950’s, with beautiful teak wood and a completely retro feel. We had some wine on board, and you can do a meal as well. You can even spend the night on one of the boats! The crew was friendly and there to help if needed.
Hotels
In the town of Provesende, this was a charming old house that was restored and has an understated elegance to it. This is where I wanted to stay, especially because of the restaurant and bakery in the village, but it was unfortunately booked. You can do a dinner here, even if you’re not a guest - just make sure that you calling advance to book it.
This was a bit more rustic, but I read rave reviews across the board.
If you’re looking for something a little more luxurious, this could be your answer.
Car Rental
Auto Europe has been my go-to move for the past several European trips. They have a great selection and competitive prices. Plus, they offer automatic options. Be sure to choose this option if you don’t drive stick!